Though I've yet to hear of an example, i'm sure there are places where local building codes may apply (so look into those first), but otherwise there's no real safety issues considering our elements are 24 volts...

Many people build showers where they heat the floor and walls with STEP Warmfloor, and we supply a company that wraps tubs with our elements.

There are a lot of nuances to the construction involved in some of these projects, so I try to inspire people to hire a professional (or 2, for example a carpenter and an electrician; they've got presents to buy this month...).

Of the utmost importance is that, in wet areas, our elements need to be on the dry side of the moisture barrier that's installed.

Hello,

How close to the bathtub can we install this on a tile floor?

Would it be possible to go under the tub?

Can warmfloor be wrapped around the tub so the tub is warmed also?

Thanks,

Jamie

Sorry to leave your question hanging...

First, it would be wrong of me to not mention that it sounds like you may need more subfloor than that for a sturdy tile installation.  Your tile guy should know better than I do so you may want to ask him about that...

As far as question 1: (if you haven't already done the job) you should be fine either way.

And for question #2:  Thinset is always your best bet when you're doing a tile floor.  There is no possibility of creating a short in the circuit with thinset.

Thinset, Thinset, Thinset.

Oops.

Our elements don't get along with some of the chemicals in some silicone caulk / adhesives.

It sounds like a very nasty but very quiet chemical reaction took place between the elements and the adhesive you used, which killed the element.

You should probably call in to our tech help at  1 (877) 783-7832.  Ultimately, we'd like to have you send a piece of the element back so we can look into your problem further.

I have a two part question.  I'm renovating my master bath & installing the Warmfloor as the sole heating source for the room.  I have 5/8" plywood subfloor & I placed 1/2" Hardi backer board on top of that & will install 18"x18" marble tile as the finished floor.  I was told the closer I have the heating elements to the tile the better or warmer the tile will be.  Question 1.  Should I put the elements on top of the 1/2" Hardi board & then thinset the tile on top of the elements or should I first thinset another layer of 1/4" Hardi board before the tile?  This way the elements are sandwiched in between the two layers of Hardi board. I"m sure the tile guy will prefer this so he is working on a smooth floor.

Question 2.  What is the best way to fix the elements to the Hardi board?  Staples won't due.  Someone suggested duct tape.  Can I nait it down maybe with galvanized roofing nails?  Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Here is my problem.  A piece of element ohmed properly before installation.  I placed the SW element in place, used silcone caulk to keep it in place (on a piece of WEDI board) and also used the same caulk to adhere the floor covering.  After drying time, the element did not register any ohm's and will not heat up.  I removed the floor covering, pulled the element out, rechecked the ohm's and still nothing registers.  It is like the piece of material is dead.  What's wrong?

I am seriously considering installing your system in a new house I am building in British Columbia,Canada.But before I make the final decision I would like to talk with someone who has installed this system and has had it up and running for a while.Is there some one out there who is willing to share some information??

On the subject of cieling fans:  with our system, a cieling fan will do nothing to contribute to the effectiveness of the system.
Hot air rises, true.  To push it back down to our level instead of letting it hang out up on the cieling can be worthwhile, hence the cieling fan.  But our system makes heat, and heat doesn't rise, it radiates from its source. 
The only thing a cieling fan would do is create a breeze, or a simulated draft.  This would take away some of the things that makes our systems, and radiant heat in general, more comfortable than a forced air system.  For example, it may blow around allergens and the like, keeping them airborne and breathable instead of on the floor and vacuumable.
With STEP Warmfloor, your cieling fans are relegated to those times of year where you don't need heat.
Unless you like the breeze.

First, the good news.  In spite of  title twenty four they are going to allow us to install the step warm floor as our primary heat source.  They said if we were doing new construction they wouldn't allow it, but since we're remodeling it was ok.  It still seems pretty arbitrary to me.

We're going to install ceiling fans for ventillation in the summer time, but I was wondering if it is helpful to have a fan that reverses for the winter months.   I know the radiant heat doesn't heat the air very efficiently, but we have high vaulted ceilings and i'm wondering if a fan blowing down would make any significant difference.

JNacht,

Having done a few tile jobs before, and having come across a few that had problems, I'd encourage you to consider the strength of your substrate prior to considering any potential difference in height on the two different surfaces.

Provided the span of the underlying joists isn't too long, and their dimensions are enough to limit deflection of the subfloor, I personaly, would use either a 1/4 inch cbu, or perhaps Ditra (more info at http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx ).  Either of these should bring the height of the tile floor pretty close to the wood floor.

Also, there is a ridiculous wealth of information available at http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1 on any imaginable tile issue.