Todd,

Send the attachment to sales at warmfloor.com, and we will begin working on your estimate.  I wrote it the aforementioned way to avoid our email address from being picked up by spam-bots.  Replace "at" with "@".

Thanks.

Hello, we are a business looking for some info on the floor heating systems for our new shop- we were told we could mail an attachment floor plan and get estimates as well as our kw/hr usage and ambient temp and get cost estimates to run- just get back to us with an address to run an attachment unless there is one here that i can't see and we will send floor plan, thanks-Todd

Rob,

If your service panel circuit breaker is not tripping, then I would not worry about the circuit breaker for right now.  My concern is your uneven heating.  I have several questions for you:

1)  Is this a total heat or floor warming application?
2)  Did we design the layout for this installation?
3)  Is the entire floor of the room covered with Warmfloor strips?
4)  What type of insulation did you use under the floor?
5)  Are there any exterior walls, and if so, how well are they insulated?
6)  How long are the wire lengths between the 10 ft. runs and the transformer, and what gauge of wire did you use?

You mentioned that this is a new installation, so perhaps the floor needed time to warm up.  Because this issue is not specific, it may be best to contact our technical support via telephone for a faster solution.  We may be going back and forth for days on this message board.

Please note that you can contact our technical support, Monday through Friday between the hours of 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. (CST), and our toll-free number is 877-783-7832.

My warm floor is not heating very good.  My question is:  What type of circuit breaker is required for this circuit? I am using a THQL15G circuit breaker. It was suggested that i use a THQL15HM, heavy magnetic circuit breaker for this application.  They are very expensive and before i purchase one i would like your opinion.  The problem is that my longest run is only 10 feet in length.  I have 2 runs that are about that length on separate connections at the transformer. Either run gets warm when they get to the end of the run.  The warmth over the entire floor is very spotty and it just does not feel right.  It is a new install and my pictures are on the way to your company.  I installed this exactly like the video on this site and insulated under the floor.  Any suggestions.

Interrupting the V- would not just turn off the power to the transformer, but the display on the thermostat as well; so that would work.

If, on the other hand, you interrupt the trig, the triac won't let power go to the transformer but the display on the thermostat would still stay on.

I'm an engineer working on the remodel of an existing custom home. One large room of the home has a Warmfloor system with a Digi-Lux thermostat. The room is also served by a forced-air cooling system. Currently, there is no coordination between heating and cooling in the room.

To prevent simultaneous heating and cooling, can we intercept the white wire (V-) from the thermostat to the regulator to disable the Warmfloor heating when the room is in cooling mode? If not, what's the best way to accomplish this?

Thanks for your help.

Even with the transformer that you have, I would still suggest using a high magnetic circuit breaker with our system.  They will usually take care of nuisance trips.  I would also check and tighten up all the connections (on the transformer and MICROREG), particularly on the primary side.  Your transformer uses wire nuts, and they can come loose over time.  Tighten those up after about a year or so.

When we design a system here, we usually try to start the first run of elements at the toekick of a bathroom vanity because of the potential for this problem (which is why we can be sticklers about the measurements people send in for us to quote off of).  The cool floor under a vanity can wick heat away more than people think.

As for installing under laminate or hardwood, you do not need more power to make those floors warm, but you may need to better insulate below the elements (always important, even under tile).

And if you decide on hardwood, you'll only have to run the elements perpindicular to the flooring and nail away, just don't hit a bus braid (the wire that runs down either side of the element).

for more information, scroll down and click on the STEP Handbook link in the Popular column. 

I recommend you call our tech help line - (877)783-7832.  There are too many things to check to effectively trouble shoot your problem online.

A few questions ...
- We have Stepwarm installed in the bathroom under tile - the warmth is very conformtable but we did not cover the space under the cabinet and it is definitely cooler.  Too late now but should we have done this also?
- We're considering putting it under laminate or hardwood, but these materials are less conductive and more "insulating" aren't they?  I'm concerned it will take alot more energy to keep these types of materials warm.
-If we decide on hardwood and use nails, what happens if we accidentally hit a mat?  I'm concerned about how to avoid this.
Thanks.