There is no diagram.  It doesn't matter which goes where.  Just pick your favorite direction (left or right) and hook your favorite polarity up to it.

Too many things could cause that to happen, to effectively troubleshoot it through this forum.

If you could call 1-877-783-7832 we could run through all these possibilities and solve your problem much more quickly.  Just ask for Tim.

The point of the tinned copper wire is corrosion resistance.  Plain copper wire would corrode and likely cause the system to fail over time.

It's also important because using anything other than tinned copper voids the system's warranty.

Provided it's all put together correctly, that preperation may be ideal.  And I'd pass on the thinset unless you're using it to set tile in.  Frankly, I'd recommend you consult a local carpenter who could look at your basement and make recomendations that way.

Interrupting the V- would not just turn off the power to the transformer, but the display on the thermostat as well; so that would work.

If, on the other hand, you interrupt the trig, the triac won't let power go to the transformer but the display on the thermostat would still stay on.

When we design a system here, we usually try to start the first run of elements at the toekick of a bathroom vanity because of the potential for this problem (which is why we can be sticklers about the measurements people send in for us to quote off of).  The cool floor under a vanity can wick heat away more than people think.

As for installing under laminate or hardwood, you do not need more power to make those floors warm, but you may need to better insulate below the elements (always important, even under tile).

And if you decide on hardwood, you'll only have to run the elements perpindicular to the flooring and nail away, just don't hit a bus braid (the wire that runs down either side of the element).

for more information, scroll down and click on the STEP Handbook link in the Popular column. 

I recommend you call our tech help line - (877)783-7832.  There are too many things to check to effectively trouble shoot your problem online.

I'd have to say that the best way to figure out your options for using STEP Warmfloor in your new home would be to send in a quote request (http://www.warmfloor.com/content/view/44/77/) or call in and talk to us.  Different types of construction in different places require different systems, and the best way to figure these things out is for us to be able to speak with you.  Give us a call at 1-877-783-7832 for information specific to your situation.

A few different things that may be the problem.  The first thing I'd check is amperage on each element to be sure they're all well connected.  Our standard residential elements (EP-30-2-24V-24W) should be around .325 amps per foot at 24 volts.  If your meter says something different, you may have a connection problem.

If it turns out that you don't have a connection problem, then perhaps you need some/ some more insulation below the elements, or make sure your insulation is properly installed.  If you have access to joist cavities below the Warmfloor installation, you can put fiberglass insulation up against the bottom of the subfloor (being sure that you don't leave an air gap between the insulation and the botom of the subfloor.)

And if you don't think these suggestions are relevent, then you should probably call our tech help line (1-877-783-7832).

Yes.  it sounds like something our product can handle.  Just send in a quote request: http://www.warmfloor.com/content/view/44/77/ and we'll get back to you with it as soon as we're done with the quote.

Though I've yet to hear of an example, i'm sure there are places where local building codes may apply (so look into those first), but otherwise there's no real safety issues considering our elements are 24 volts...

Many people build showers where they heat the floor and walls with STEP Warmfloor, and we supply a company that wraps tubs with our elements.

There are a lot of nuances to the construction involved in some of these projects, so I try to inspire people to hire a professional (or 2, for example a carpenter and an electrician; they've got presents to buy this month...).

Of the utmost importance is that, in wet areas, our elements need to be on the dry side of the moisture barrier that's installed.

Sorry to leave your question hanging...

First, it would be wrong of me to not mention that it sounds like you may need more subfloor than that for a sturdy tile installation.  Your tile guy should know better than I do so you may want to ask him about that...

As far as question 1: (if you haven't already done the job) you should be fine either way.

And for question #2:  Thinset is always your best bet when you're doing a tile floor.  There is no possibility of creating a short in the circuit with thinset.

Thinset, Thinset, Thinset.

Oops.

Our elements don't get along with some of the chemicals in some silicone caulk / adhesives.

It sounds like a very nasty but very quiet chemical reaction took place between the elements and the adhesive you used, which killed the element.

You should probably call in to our tech help at  1 (877) 783-7832.  Ultimately, we'd like to have you send a piece of the element back so we can look into your problem further.

On the subject of cieling fans:  with our system, a cieling fan will do nothing to contribute to the effectiveness of the system.
Hot air rises, true.  To push it back down to our level instead of letting it hang out up on the cieling can be worthwhile, hence the cieling fan.  But our system makes heat, and heat doesn't rise, it radiates from its source. 
The only thing a cieling fan would do is create a breeze, or a simulated draft.  This would take away some of the things that makes our systems, and radiant heat in general, more comfortable than a forced air system.  For example, it may blow around allergens and the like, keeping them airborne and breathable instead of on the floor and vacuumable.
With STEP Warmfloor, your cieling fans are relegated to those times of year where you don't need heat.
Unless you like the breeze.

JNacht,

Having done a few tile jobs before, and having come across a few that had problems, I'd encourage you to consider the strength of your substrate prior to considering any potential difference in height on the two different surfaces.

Provided the span of the underlying joists isn't too long, and their dimensions are enough to limit deflection of the subfloor, I personaly, would use either a 1/4 inch cbu, or perhaps Ditra (more info at http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx ).  Either of these should bring the height of the tile floor pretty close to the wood floor.

Also, there is a ridiculous wealth of information available at http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1 on any imaginable tile issue.