Here is my problem.  A piece of element ohmed properly before installation.  I placed the SW element in place, used silcone caulk to keep it in place (on a piece of WEDI board) and also used the same caulk to adhere the floor covering.  After drying time, the element did not register any ohm's and will not heat up.  I removed the floor covering, pulled the element out, rechecked the ohm's and still nothing registers.  It is like the piece of material is dead.  What's wrong?

I am seriously considering installing your system in a new house I am building in British Columbia,Canada.But before I make the final decision I would like to talk with someone who has installed this system and has had it up and running for a while.Is there some one out there who is willing to share some information??

On the subject of cieling fans:  with our system, a cieling fan will do nothing to contribute to the effectiveness of the system.
Hot air rises, true.  To push it back down to our level instead of letting it hang out up on the cieling can be worthwhile, hence the cieling fan.  But our system makes heat, and heat doesn't rise, it radiates from its source. 
The only thing a cieling fan would do is create a breeze, or a simulated draft.  This would take away some of the things that makes our systems, and radiant heat in general, more comfortable than a forced air system.  For example, it may blow around allergens and the like, keeping them airborne and breathable instead of on the floor and vacuumable.
With STEP Warmfloor, your cieling fans are relegated to those times of year where you don't need heat.
Unless you like the breeze.

First, the good news.  In spite of  title twenty four they are going to allow us to install the step warm floor as our primary heat source.  They said if we were doing new construction they wouldn't allow it, but since we're remodeling it was ok.  It still seems pretty arbitrary to me.

We're going to install ceiling fans for ventillation in the summer time, but I was wondering if it is helpful to have a fan that reverses for the winter months.   I know the radiant heat doesn't heat the air very efficiently, but we have high vaulted ceilings and i'm wondering if a fan blowing down would make any significant difference.

JNacht,

Having done a few tile jobs before, and having come across a few that had problems, I'd encourage you to consider the strength of your substrate prior to considering any potential difference in height on the two different surfaces.

Provided the span of the underlying joists isn't too long, and their dimensions are enough to limit deflection of the subfloor, I personaly, would use either a 1/4 inch cbu, or perhaps Ditra (more info at http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx ).  Either of these should bring the height of the tile floor pretty close to the wood floor.

Also, there is a ridiculous wealth of information available at http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1 on any imaginable tile issue.

Chuck,

If you are referring to the MICROREG controller, it should have been packaged with a cover to fit a single gang box electrical box.

i have the analog type of wall stat with a 4"x4" wall electric box I an can find a box cover that fits the control.   Most allow for standard single outlets that are too small or dual outlet covers that are too big.   This control looks like its inbetween.   I checked with numerous suppliers and they do not carry a plate that fits the controller.   

Hello,

I am preparing to install your product as the primary heat source in my home.  As part of my remodel, I have removed the subfloor and replaced it with solid-core 3/4" tongue in groove plywood.  Half the floor will receive hardwood, the other half will receive tile.

My question is in regards to thickness, as I want both floors to be as close in height as possible.

The wood floor will receive:

1) A layer of 15 lb felt
2) Your residential heating element
3) 3/4" nail down hardwood

The tile floor will receive:

1) Your residential heating element
2) A layer of thin-set
3) Cement or Cement/Fiber board
4) A layer of thin-set
5) 5/16" 18" x 18" porcelain tile

I've read your documentation and it says the heating element is 3/64" thick; however, does that also include the thickness of the crimped wire connectors to the bus braids?  What about the wire thickness?

With an 18" x 18" tile I'd normally use a 1/4" square notch trowel.  Do you concur and what size trowel notch do you recommend over the heating element for the cement board?

What thickness of cement board do you think would yield a finished floor that is even with he wood floor?

Thanks,

- JNacht

 Wedi   770-992-5320 www.wedi.de  used with Tile
Depron (Grey 3mm & 6mm) 770-381-5646 www.rcfoam.com  can be sandwich between the concrete and plywood 

Your installation guidelines show a "Thermal Insulation" between the concrete slab and the element. What is this thermal insulation and can you direct me to where the material is purchased?

Thanks,